These are two of my favourite holiday hors-d’œuvres. They seem very retro to me probably because I can still see my mother making them every year. Even the word “hors d’oeuvres” sounds retro to me. But they’re so easy, beautiful and delicious that my family has adopted them as our favourites. Enjoy!
Alain Ducasse’s Gougères
Makes about 30 bite sized cheese puffs
Ingredients
- ½ cup water
- ½ cup milk
- 1 stick (4 oz) of unsalted butter, cut into tablespoons
- Large pinch of coarse salt
- 1 cup all-purpose flour
- 4 large eggs
- 3 ½ oz shredded Gruyère cheese (1 cup), plus more for sprinkling
- Freshly ground pepper
- Freshly ground nutmeg
Directions
1. Preheat the over to 400 degrees. Line 2 baking sheets with parchment paper. In a medium saucepan, combine the water, milk, butter and salt and bring to a boil. Add the flour and stir it in with a wooden spoon until a smooth dough forms. Stir it over a low heat until it dries out and pulls away from the pan, about 2 minutes.
2. Scrape the dough into a bowl; let cool for 1 minute. Beat the eggs into the dough, 1 at a time, beating thoroughly between each one. Add the cheese and a pinch each of the pepper and nutmeg.
3. Use two spoons to portion and drop the dough onto the baking sheets about 2” apart. The balls should be about the size of cherry tomatoes. Sprinkle with cheese and bake 22 minutes or until puffed and golden brown. Serve hot. Or let them cool and refrigerate or freeze for later. Reheat at 350 degrees until hot.
Notes: Make sure to fully incorporate each egg into the batter before adding the next. These freeze really well so double the recipe and freeze some for another occasion. You’ll be so glad to have them.
Beet- and Horseradish-Cured Salmon
Ingredients
- 6 oz horseradish, grated fresh, or prepared, well drained
- 1 salmon fillet, about 3 lbs, skin off
- 1 lb red beets, raw, peeled and grated, juice included
- 1 large bunch fresh dill, roughly chopped
- ½ cup plus 2 tablespoons granulated sugar
- 1 cup plus 2 tablespoons kosher salt
- ¼ cup cracked black pepper
Directions
1. If using fresh horseradish, peel, cut into chunks and process in a food processor, using the steel blade. Don’t grate it by hand—the fumes will be overpowering.
2. Remove any bones from the salmon and set aside. In a large stainless steel or glass bowl, combine horseradish and remaining ingredients.
3. Choose a nonreactive dish (like glass) that’s large enough to hold the salmon. Ideally your salmon and the mixture will fit in a Ziplock plastic bag. If not, line the pan with plastic wrap. Cover both sides of the salmon with the mixture.
4. Seal the baggie or cover the salmon tightly with plastic wrap. Place another pan or dish on top and weight it with cans. Cure in the refrigerator for three days occasionally turning the salmon over to be sure the mixture is covering it evenly.
5. After three days, gently scrape off the beet mixture and discard. Cut salmon in very thin slices and serve. It’s good on pumpernickel bread or Finn Crisps or other crackers with a small dollop of crème fresh and dill.
